VIVA LA CHILE
June 8th, 2012 | admin
This year I went to Chile with a mindset to surf for myself. I feel that’s the only true way I can get myself surfing right now. I’ve got my own motivation and impressing judges doesn’t do much for it right now. That time will come though, it’s inevitable. I’m enjoying the freedom of free surfing. It’s harder to achieve your own style when your stuck in a comp mindset. You kinda box yourself in. But your around the best in the world so your going to progress rapidly. But I’d rather figure it out for myself. It’s a creative sport. there’s plenty of room to grow. Anyways, I’m training hard before the Mexico comp! That place can get pretty serious. I nearly drowned last year. Actually I had a few memorable beat downs. Let’s see how my Californian training regime go’s. I’m focused, but this place has a lot of distractions. It’s all positive though so I’m cruisin.
Anyways I actually lied before, My true main midset with the Chile trip was on the South American culture. Learning a little more about the South American consciousness was a proper project for me. A demanding one. Mega gringo. I guess SA take’s up a huge percentage of this world so it only makes sense to learn about it. Met some amazing people (always). Cemented some life long memories. & learnt a shit load about myself. I could write a seriously long post about my Chile rampage but I can’t really be bothered. Something’s are better left unsaid. I’ll let this short video do the talking!
If you can spell out this opening quote I’ll give you a board.